Travel Story Book

Travel stories by a nature lover – stories about nature and life

Kanha & Bandhavgarh

March 2009

Next Page >>> Route Map

Kanha Bandhavgarh Route Map Information 


Crested serpent eagle

Crested serpent eagle

It was a 5 hour drive from Kanha to Bahdhavgarh – 1.5 hours more than expected. A bad stretch of 50Km being the main cause of delay. As a result, it was not possible to do the evening safari in Bandhavgarh. Things were not as organized here as in Kisli. The permit form was not taken care of by the hotel and had to be submitted in the forest office personally. It was more crowded – may be due to belief that tiger sighting is almost guaranteed in Bandhavgarh. Thus everybody went into the forest with a firm belief that they will see tigers – question was how many? A couple in our hotel was betting whether they will see 3 tigers or 5 tigers the next morning!!!! Imagine their frustration when the next morning safari did not have a single tiger sighting. How could they go back without seeing a tiger?




The park has been divided into three zones and there was a mad, mad rush for Zone 1 (Tala gate). It seemed that there was no vacancy for Zone 1 and Zone 2 was allocated to us for the morning safari. It was a big disappointment. Bandhavgarh is also a sal and bamboo forest. Though parts of the forest in zone 2 is not as dense or diverse as Kanha. For some time we were traveling along the boundary of the park – with houses just on the other side. That took away all the feeling of doing a jungle safari. We did manage to see a few wild animals – mainly deers and a couple of jackals. The guide was also a big disappointment – very passive throughout the trip and openly saying that it was useless coming to Zone 2 as few wild animals can be seen there.



My daughter wanted to take rest in the evening, so I decided to try to get into Zone 1 for the evening safari. And the method was simple. Go and wait near the gate and if any of the vehicles entering the park has vacant seats, ask if they are interested in sharing. I found another resident from MPT also there with the same purpose. So both of us literally went begging until we were taken in a vehicle. Zone 1 was definitely better than Zone 2 – more wildlife and dense forests. Sparingly alarm calls could be heard, but the tiger could not be tracked. At one point, the guide said that there were tiger cubs among the bushes, but the sound of the jeeps frequently starting their engines was preventing them from venturing on the road. After a long wait, it was time to go back as it was closing time.
Jackal eating kill

Jackal eating kill

The final safari was the next morning, prior to our departure. We did manage to get Zone 1 after a long wait. A lot of pug marks could be seen, but not the tiger. The elephants were also unable to track any tigers. But the prized view of this safari was a group of jackals eating a freshly killed deer. They just dug into the deer and tore it apart. If we had been there a couple of minutes back, we could have actually seen them making the kill.
Five days in the forests of Kanha and Bandhavgarh, seven safaris – now it was time to start our return journey. It felt bad to leave the forests, and left for Bhedaghat (near Jabalpur) with a promise to come back sometime in the future.




Ending Note

  1. Kanha is less commercialized than Bandhavgarh. Bandhavgarh seemed to be more crowded, the guides and safari drivers less friendly. I personally could enjoy the solitude of the forests better in Kanha.
  2. I have seen frustration, anger and even jealousy among the people at not being able to see the tiger. One must realize that viewing wild life cannot be predicted in a forest, the only place it can be is in a zoo. Visiting the forests with a sole purpose to view the tiger could spoil the whole trip.
  3. Many people are reluctant to follow the rules of the safaris – no eating during the safari except at pre-designated areas, no littering and not taking anything of the forest. Why do some people behave in this way?


  • Google Bookmarks
  • Digg
  • Facebook
  • TwitThis
  • Reddit
  • Technorati
  • LinkedIn


Next Page >>> Route Map

Kanha Bandhavgarh Route Map Information


  1. Britishraj said:

    The story was excellent and the photograhs ‘A-Mazing’ do you have an exhibition of your work in Calcutta? Is it expensve to go on safari?

    All the photos are truly inspiring

    Thanks for sharing them with us.

    Posted on September 16th, 2009 at 7:26 pm

  2. admin said:

    Thank you Britishraj for your compliment. No, I do not have any exhibitions – as far as photography is concerned, I have a long long way to go.
    I have provided the details of Safari charges in the ‘Information’ tab of my post. In Kanha & Bandhavgarh, 4 hours of safari for 6 persons costs around Rs 1700. We tried to share with other families where possible.

    Posted on September 17th, 2009 at 4:34 am

  3. July said:

    The pictures are wonderful. We will be visiting Kanha this Dec.Thanks for sharing your experience. MP tourism is asking for Rs. 3500 for safari per trip. We are two adults and two children. Is it reasonable.

    Posted on November 1st, 2009 at 2:58 pm

  4. admin said:

    July, each safari cost for me was approximately around Rs 1700. This is the cost per jeep, carrying upto 6 persons, and includes jeep rental, park entry fee and guide charges.
    However, if you are not an Indian national, the cost is pretty high(a very unfortunate Indian policy). In that case the cost is approximately Rs 3500. I assume that you are not an Indian national.

    Posted on November 1st, 2009 at 3:28 pm

  5. July said:

    My husband is not an Indian but I am so I don’t know how they ware going to charge us and I have a 4 year old daughter with us.

    Posted on November 1st, 2009 at 7:54 pm

  6. admin said:

    July, I think you should insist for an Indian rate. It seems that they have given you a foreigner rate.

    Posted on November 2nd, 2009 at 7:00 am

  7. Gandharv Jain said:

    What would be the cost of a trip to bandavgarh including food stay& travel cost for 4 guys.!?
    As well as for kanha!?

    Posted on March 22nd, 2010 at 8:47 am

  8. admin said:

    Hi Gandharv,

    Very difficult to say. All categories of hotels are present – cheap & expensive. Dormitory accommodation will be cheap. AC rooms will be expensive. So it will depend on your choice of accommodation and number of days you want to spend. Only the cost of safari is fixed and I have mentioned it in my posts.

    Posted on April 6th, 2010 at 9:37 am

  9. Nilanjan said:

    Very nice detailed information provided here. It was very helpful.
    However, one thing I noticed is that the rates have changed I think for the safaris. It will be helpful to update with the current rates.

    Posted on January 11th, 2012 at 11:06 am

  10. Maria said:

    Interesting pelobrm!Well let’s make the assumption (perhaps not correct) that every deer has the same chance of being caught–the deer the conservationist brought into the area, and the deer that were there before. The deer he brought in were 800, the deer there before are unknown.So he then catches 612 and 153 are tagged. That means that 153/612 represents the ratio of deers brought to deers already there. 153/612 is .25, exactly 1 quarter (how convenient!)So the deer he brought in are 1/4 of the total deer, meaning the deer that were already there are the other 3/4. He brought in 800 deer, and there were three times that many there already, or 2400 deer. Now there are 3200 deer, including the ones that were there and the ones he brought in.EDIT NOOOO, that’s wrong. I read the question again. He didn’t bring in the 800 deer, he caught them there. That means the 800 deer are subtracted from the total population. The 800 is still 1/4 of the group, though, so the total population is still 3200.References :

    Posted on February 6th, 2012 at 3:25 pm

  11. Sudeepta said:

    Please let me know what is the distance between kanha and bandhavgarh, and how much time it will take. we are planning to travel 12 -15 people, so is there any bus services available? or how much it may cost if we book Innova.

    Posted on November 5th, 2013 at 1:34 pm

Add Your Comment