Travel Story Book

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Pindari Glacier

October 2011

Himalayas Calling Information  


Journey distance and time

The following was our itinerary for our trek. The base is Bageshwar from where one can plan at one’s convenience. The trek times are the time taken by us. While planning, keep in mind that we were moving at a very leisurely pace. We have seen people cutting down the time by 2/3 days and doing this in 5/6 days.

Distance and Time taken on the way to Pindari

Distance and Time taken on the way to Pindari

Gradient Chart

The following is the gradient chart for the trip. All altitudes measured on GPS application of my Android phone, so there may be minor deviations from the actual altitude of the place.

Gradient of the trip to Pindari Glacier

Gradient of the trip to Pindari Glacier

Route Information


  • Loharkhet: PWD
  • Upper Loharkhet: KMVN TRH
  • Dhakuri: KMVN TRH (3 rooms and 1 tent, more rooms being built), PWD, Forest Dept.
  • Khati: KMVN TRH, PWD, Sangam cottage (4 rooms) run by a local villager Tara. More guest houses being built as it is soon expected to be connected by road from Bageshwar. Just before Khati, there is a Anupom Lodge.
  • Dwali: KMVN TRH (3 rooms and 2 tents), PWD
  • Phurkia: KMVN TRH(4 rooms, 1 tent), PWD at Phurkia seemed to be closed and not in a habitable state.

No advance booking option for KMVN TRH or PWD. It’s given on a first come first serve basis.

Hotels in Bageshwar

  • Hotel Siddharth (+91 5963220114)
  • Hotel Gomti (+91 5963220071, +91 9456104855)
  • Hotel Narendra Palace (+91 5963220166, +91 9412045216, +91 9917133317)
  • KMVN
  • and many more


No fancy options. Maggi, paratha or roti sabji for breakfast. Veg or egg meal for lunch or dinner consisting of rice, roti, dal and curry (options are: potato, soyabean, potato, potato, potato…., egg – if you are lucky). Kichdi is also available.


  • Tent is not required unless you are planning to spend the night near zero point. Same can be said for sleeping bags.
  • No pre-booking of cars or hotels is required.
  • Guide is not mandatory as the trail is clear.
  • Phone signal is available upto Khati. BSNL works fine, Airtel occasionally. We were told that other service providers are starting soon in that area. Only BSNL works in Dhakuri – signal is weak. There is a STD facility in Dhakuri.
  • No electricity in this route. All TRH (s) have generator that is switched on for 1-2 hours in the evening. So carry torch, head torch and candles.

Contact numbers

Guide: Roop Singh Danu
Our guide Roop Singh Danu, highly recommended for all treks in that region and also in other areas of the Himalayas. Pindari, Kafni and Sundardunga are near to his village.

  • Cell: +91 9410773399 [Roop Singh and his brother Ballu Singh share the same mobile]. Will not be available when they are on a trek or expedition.
  • Home: +91 5963213118 [This is their home number in Jatoli village]
  • Alternate: If they cannot be reached in any of the above numbers, ring up Hotel Siddharth in Bageshwar and leave a message for Roop Singh. The phone number of Hotel Siddharth is +91 5963220114

Wallet check

Expenses that I incurred.

  1. Indigo flight from Kolkata to New Delhi: Rs 4700
  2. Delhi Terminal 1 to Terminal 3 by bus: Rs 25
  3. Airport Express to New Delhi: Rs 80
  4. New Delhi to Old Delhi by metro: Rs 8
  5. To & fro rickshaw from Old Delhi station to Parathawala gali: Rs 30
  6. Train from NDLS to Haldwani (3AC): 406
  7. Shared car from Haldwani to Almora: Rs 250
  8. Shared car from Almora to Bageshwar: Rs 200
  9. Car from Bageshwar to Saung (reserved): Rs 1000
  10. Food & accommodation during 8 days of trek / person: Rs 3400
  11. Porter charge (sukha or without food) : Rs 400 /day
  12. (though we paid Roop Singh more than this due to various reasons)

  13. Mule charge : Rs 500 /day
  14. Car from Upper Loharkhet to Bageshwar (reserved): Rs 1500
  15. Shared car from Bageshwar to Haldwani: Rs 250
  16. Bus from Haldwani to Lalkuan: Rs 10
  17. Train from Lalkuan to Lucknow (SL): Rs 193
  18. Rickshaw from Aishbagh to Charbagh: Rs 15
  19. Shared auto from Charbagh to Lucknow Airport: Rs 15
  20. Flight from Lucknow to Kolkata: Rs 2028


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Himalayas Calling Information


  1. Indranil said:

    Excellent sir! Quick q:

    Food & accommodation during 8 days of trek / person: Rs 3400 – how many of you shared? :)

    Posted on November 11th, 2011 at 6:26 am

  2. admin said:

    Three persons :-)

    Posted on November 11th, 2011 at 6:30 am

  3. somnath biswas said:

    Excellent blog Kaushiks. Photographs are equally good.

    Posted on November 11th, 2011 at 1:10 pm

  4. Suparna Das said:

    Excellent write up , Kaushik.I could visualize every moment of the trekking days.

    Posted on November 11th, 2011 at 4:59 pm

  5. Kasturi & Navojit said:

    Very Very informative.Very much helpful for future trekkers. Photos by which camera ?Write up & Photo durdanto. What are the guide & mule charges per day ?

    Posted on November 13th, 2011 at 1:40 pm

  6. admin said:

    Thank you Somnath-da. Hope you enjoyed it and it will help in your next years planning.

    Posted on November 14th, 2011 at 5:56 pm

  7. Sudipa said:

    Am I missing the guide charges? Same question as in # 5 above…

    Posted on November 14th, 2011 at 8:47 pm

  8. Kausik Saha said:

    Kasturi & Navojit,

    Thank you. My camera is Canon 7D with Canon lenses 24-70 and 70-300 IS.
    I missed the porter and mule charges in the post and have updated the same. Standard charges for porter is Rs 400/day (sukha, i.e. food not included) and for mule Rs 500/day. Bargaining happens and you can get at somewhat lower rates also.

    However, we paid Roop Singh much more than Rs 400/day because of two reasons. First, because of his excellent service – the way he took care of Raddur was exceptional and it needed to be acknowledged. Second, my friend through whom I had contacted Roop had requested me to pay more than the standard porter charges to Roop, as Roop should not be treated at par with other porters. They have a long history of association and respect for Roop.

    Posted on November 15th, 2011 at 4:20 am

  9. Kausik Saha said:

    So should we start planning for the next one?

    Posted on November 15th, 2011 at 4:21 am

  10. Kausik Saha said:

    Yes, I missed the guide charges. Have updated the same in the post and also in comment #8.

    Posted on November 15th, 2011 at 4:22 am

  11. Shaan singh said:

    Hello guys plz dont mind .i’m searching someone last 4 years name suprna das so i just confirm it. R u suprna das from renusagar ?

    Posted on January 5th, 2012 at 8:34 pm

  12. Khadija said:

    Boss, This was a sccptaeular visual presentation of Jabalpur.Done professionally and painstakingly with passion. Feeling great to be resident of it. Vivek Naidu

    Posted on February 3rd, 2012 at 5:27 pm

  13. Rahul Das said:

    How to contact Roop Sing Dhanu for any program?

    Posted on March 2nd, 2012 at 7:01 pm

  14. Nayan said:

    A very nice and informative write up. By the way when was this trip done? I had been in the region during Sept. 1988 with Balwant Singh – Ballu as you have mentioned (Roop’s brother as Roop was out with an expedition team during the phase). Ballu was great too and I in person shall remain ever grateful to him as he saved me twice from fatal falls in the Sunderdinga belt during our trip.

    Have intentions to take my family sometime (wife and 2 daughters of 12 & 6 yrs.) to share my feeling which I had during my hay days. Is it possible for some interactive mails on my mail ID regarding the latest developments of the region and other aspects?

    I have coincidentally managed to get Ballu’s ph no. and am posting it here in case someone might benifit from it (9410773399). Rahul up there may try this to reach Roop.

    Posted on May 7th, 2012 at 9:14 am

  15. Nayan said:

    Saw the second page today, fantastic details……great to know of the 1~2hrs. of electricity we had seen torm out wiring and 1 bulb dangling at Upper Loharkhet in 1988, ofcourse without any supply.

    Posted on May 8th, 2012 at 8:30 am

  16. raj verma said:

    Thanks for your information sir …..we are planning to go pindari in october

    Posted on June 23rd, 2012 at 6:42 am

  17. Tara singh papola said:

    very very nice informition.. Country
     • Total
    2,302 km2 (889 sq mi)
     • Total
      • Density
    108/km2 (280/sq mi)
     • Official
    Time zone
    IST ( UTC+5:30 )
    Bageshwar District is a district of Uttarakhand state in northern India . The town of Bageshwar is the district headquarters.
    Bageshwar district is in the eastern Kumaon region of Uttarakhand, and is bounded on the west and northwest by Chamoli District , on the northeast and east by Pithoragarh District , and on the south by Almora District .
    As of 2011 it is the third least populous district of Uttarakhand (out of 13 ), after Haridwar and Champawat . [1]

    Posted on September 19th, 2012 at 7:18 pm

  18. Priyank said:

    I visited Pindari in 2000 – 4 friends, no guide, no mules, no porters, 14 kg rucksacks and some downloaded maps. It was a lifetime experience. We did get lost between Dwali and Phurkiya, and it was quite scary but so much worth the fun.

    Well written article. It kindled old memories.


    Posted on October 23rd, 2012 at 11:06 am

  19. Arindam said:

    Planning for a trek to Pindari glacier in the months of August – September-2013. Our group would be a large group of 10 + members. Would be obliged if I am able to get the following information from the fellow bloggers:
    1. Is it the right time to visit that region?
    2. Are the porter and mule rates still the same?
    3. can we book accomodations in advance?
    4. We have elder members in group (upto 55 years ) with basic trekking experience, hope there would not be any problems.

    Thanking you all in advance.


    Posted on March 28th, 2013 at 10:22 am

  20. vikram said:

    Great post.
    I tried calling ballu at the number mentioned in the comments, it is switched off, is there an alternate number? also is there another way of finding other guides?

    Posted on May 8th, 2013 at 2:10 pm

  21. Ryan Mercer said:

    Woah this blog is wonderful i enjoy studying your content regularly. Keep within the fantastic perform! You recognize, nearly everyone is researching close to with this data, you could assist these people drastically.

    Posted on July 30th, 2013 at 2:09 am

  22. Amateur Photography said:

    Basically excellent writeup. It actually was when a entertainment accounts them. Appearance complex to a lot launched pleasant of your stuff! In addition, exactly how may we all be in contact?

    Posted on August 4th, 2013 at 5:10 pm

  23. vijay khati said:


    Posted on August 24th, 2013 at 3:55 am

  24. Anup Ghosh said:

    Hi Dear !

    Fantastic creation.

    Could you please tell me guide Mr Roop Singh’s telephone No. or any other guides/porters Phone No. in this route……

    Waiting your reply.


    Posted on August 27th, 2013 at 12:33 pm

  25. admin said:

    Dear Anup,

    Getting in touch with Roop is tricky. You have to keep on trying at different times of the day. His brothers’s cell no is 9410773399. Their home number is 5963213118. Hope this helps.

    Posted on August 27th, 2013 at 3:41 pm

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  28. praveen said:

    lovely. i have been to pindari/ surrounding areas four times including the last year when we had to be rescued by the army. Roop Singh is a known fellow. loyal and hardworking.
    i intend going again this summers…please join me :-)

    Posted on February 27th, 2014 at 9:13 am

  29. Harish said:

    Me and one of my friends want to go further ahead of Zero point of Pindari glacier.
    Should we do it?
    We consider it is not worth it to just go to zero point and return back, we want to climb the glacier
    i am from Kumaon region but have never climbed a glacier before.

    Posted on April 12th, 2014 at 8:35 am

  30. Pavan said:

    Excellent post.
    I was just wondering if July 4th to 13th 2014 would be a good time for this trek. I was initially planning for valley of flowers and the same may not be open this year.
    Hence looking for an alternative Kindly let me know please if july would be a good time.

    Posted on June 14th, 2014 at 12:26 pm

  31. Sid said:

    LOL. It’s most definitely not Karela Paratha, it was kerala paratha. Kerala parathas are a delicacy of the south. :D

    Posted on January 6th, 2015 at 8:34 am

  32. tejaswini said:

    nice write up…i am planning to go Pindari in May 20th to 28th may…is it a good time to go?
    pl guide about weather

    Posted on March 31st, 2015 at 3:41 am

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